The three-story stone pagoda in Beomhak-ri, Sancheong (formerly National Treasure #105), with a total height of about 4.2 meters, is one of the representative works of stone art from the late ninth century of the Unified Silla period. It shows the typical style of Unified Silla pagodas, with a three-story body atop a two-story platform. Elaborately carved images of guardian deities and bodhisattvas are found on both the upper platform and the first story of the body. While most of the stone pagoda’s components have been well preserved, the upper finial and lower base (resembling a stylobate) have been lost. Interestingly, this is the only pagoda in Korea made from syenite. As such, it has a pleasant blend of dark gray and light brown colors that convey a sense of warmth, despite the fact that it is made from stone.

The pagoda was originally erected at a temple located at the foot of Duncheolsan Mountain, overlooking the Gyeongho River in Beomhak-ri, Sancheong. Unfortunately, little evidence remains about the nature or history of the temple. However, various records indicate that a temple (or temples) named Beomaeksa, Beomhaksa, or Beomhosa was once located at the site.

The three-story stone pagoda in Beomhak-ri, Sancheong is particularly distinguished by the exquisite relief carvings on the exterior. Relief carvings on stone pagodas became widespread starting from the late eighth century of the Unified Silla period. In addition to their decorative function, such carvings were also believed to protect the sarira enshrined in the pagoda and were used to make offerings.

The upper platform of the pagoda is carved with a total of eight guardian deities, two on each side, along with four bodhisattvas on the first story of the body. This is the only stone pagoda in Gyeongsangnam-do Province that features relief carvings of both bodhisattvas and guardian deities, making it one of the most unique pagodas in Korea.

The upper platform of the pagoda is carved with a total of eight guardian deities, two on each side, along with four bodhisattvas on the first story of the body. This is the only stone pagoda in Gyeongsangnam-do Province that features relief carvings of both bodhisattvas and guardian deities, making it one of the most unique pagodas in Korea. The guardian deities on the upper platform are seated on clouds, striking different poses. They each have a halo surrounding their head, and they are wearing various types of helmets or crowns and armor. Five of them are holding swords, while the other three respectively hold a bow, the Avatamsaka Sutra, and a trident, signifying their roles as guardians of Buddhism. Although their facial expressions are rather stiff, their dynamic poses and diverse features exhibit outstanding aesthetic quality.

The bodhisattvas on the first story are seated on lotus pedestals, wearing hoods and crowns surrounded by halos. All four bodhisattvas hold a different symbolic object, such as a lotus flower, signifying that they are making offerings. Like the guardian deities, the bodhisattvas are also depicted with various poses and individual details.

Interestingly, some of the bodhisattvas seem to be facing in different directions. The bodhisattva on the east side of the pagoda is facing straight ahead, while the ones on the south and north are slightly turned to the side, as if presenting their offerings to the front of the pagoda. It seems that the bodhisattvas may have been depicted in the act of making their offerings, which are always given to the front of the pagoda.

Another significant detail about the pagoda is its material. While the majority of stone pagodas in Korea are made of granite, scientific analyses confirmed that this pagoda was made from syenite. Syenite, which means “rock made of shining feldspar” in Korean, is primarily composed of feldspar and amphibole, and is softer than granite.

Syenite is relatively scarce, not only in South Korea, but worldwide. Thus, the production of an entire pagoda from this material is rare, which is another reason why this pagoda is so unique. Further studies have shown that the syenite from the pagoda closely matches the composition of other syenite from the surrounding area of Beomhak-ri, indicating that the stone was locally sourced. Thus, when the stone pagoda was reconstructed at the Jinju National Museum in 2018, local syenite was used to recreate the missing base of the lower platform.

Since its construction during the Unified Silla period, and particularly during the Japanese colonial period, the three-story stone pagoda in Beomhak-ri, Sancheong has had a tumultuous existence, being dismantled and relocated several times. In 1940, Jeong Jeongdo, a Korean man from Jinju, agreed to dismantle and transport the stone pagoda for Oku Jisuke, a Japanese antique dealer. Since the transfer of cultural properties was illegal at the time, Jeong asked local residents to conceal the illegal activity and donated 100 yen for the construction of a village community center as a token of gratitude. Over a period of about thirty days starting in January 1941, the pieces of the stone pagoda were moved to Daegu, where they were scattered in an empty lot inside the Isogai cotton mill, which was part of the Office of Daegu Prefecture.

However, the Joseon Government-General Museum soon learned of this illegal activity and conducted an investigation. As a result, in 1942, the pagoda was confiscated and moved to the Joseon Government-General Museum in Seoul. Then after Korea regained its independence in 1945, the pagoda was erected inside Gyeongbokgung Palace on May 27, 1946, with the help of the US Army Corps of Engineers. It remained there for almost fifty years, before again being dismantled in 1994 as part of the palace restoration project. After being kept in the storage of the National Museum of Korea for twenty-three years, the pagoda was reassembled in 2018 at its current location at the Jinju National Museum in Gyeongsangnam-do Province. Thus, after seventy-seven years of arduous wandering, the pagoda has finally returned home.

Located at the foot of Duncheolsan Mountain, the three-story stone pagoda at Beomhak-ri, Sancheong displays outstanding style and craftsmanship, clearly demonstrating the skill and dedication of the artisans who made it. Since its construction in the Unified Silla period, the pagoda received prayers, wishes, and offerings from countless people through the centuries. But as time passed, the pagoda was gradually forgotten, until it eventually fell into ruin and exile. Imbued with the pain of history, the pagoda has now been restored to its rightful place as one of the cultural treasures of Unified Silla, as well as an invaluable artifact for research in diverse fields such as history, art history, and conservation science.